A Dremel is a type of rotary tool that is used for a variety of purposes such as sanding, polishing, sharpening, cutting, grout removal and among others. Dremel is not entirely a tool, but a company that manufactures rotary tools.
In this article, we shall focus more on the cutting capabilities of the Dremel rotary tool and in particular how to use a Dremel to cut wood. You can use it to cut through materials such as drywall or a piece of wood. Keep in mind that you will require specific bits or attachments depending on the material you intend to cut.
When cutting wood that is less than 0.5 inches in thickness, you will require either a straight bit or a cut-off wheel. In addition, if you are cutting wood that is more than 0.5 inches, you will require a bigger tool. Cut-off wheels are known to be small but straight bits, on the other hand, are the best when cutting wood. When you purchase a Dremel rotary tool, you might get a cutting kit that offers you a variety of attachments to use.

Source: lifehacker.com

The first thing to do before you use the rotary tool is to perform a safety check. Some of the safety equipment is listed below:

Next, we cut slots on the edges of each of the boards. One inch from the edge, we marked off a slot of 3/4 inch wide and half the length deep of the size of the board (12 inches deep). We used a circular saw to make the cuts from the bottom edge of the boards. The cuts that needed to be made on a right angle, we used a Dremel. If the sheets are equally space and the half slots all at the same height use Array to create copies of the cutting solids pairs. Otherwise use copy and move to put copies of the cutting solids in the required locations. Then use BooleanDifference with the appropriate sets of cutting solids to trim the mdf sheets. Or buying an adjustable slot cutter set and shimming it up. CMT has since replaced the set I’m using with a adjustable slot cutter, but I don’t want to buy a whole ‘nother bit set. I’ve never used 1/4” MDF in the past I’ve always used 1/2” and the panel raiser set flush. I’m thinking maybe this is the simplest solution. The biscuit jointer cuts a 4mm groove (ideal for 4mm MDF). The saw cuts about 2.8mm (3.2mm if on my table saw), so if a wider groove is needed I run a piece of 2in electrician's tape along the fence, make a cut, remove the tape (wiping any sticky bits with lighter fuel) and make a second cut. Slot Cutters Create perfect slots for splines in your glue-ups, or make t-slots for your own slat wall. These router bits by Whiteside are 100% made in the USA, rated #1 by Fine Woodworking magazine, and guaranteed.

Cutting Slots In Composite Decking

Hand gloves, as the name suggests, protect your hands from excessive friction that would come from the wood being worked on as a result of too much heat.

Safety glasses allow easy visibility when working, as well as protect your eyes from dust being blown around.

Face masks protect you against fine particles of groundwood debris flying around.

Ear plugs or muffs offer protection against excessive noise that comes from the rotary tools when in use.

How to Use a Dremel to Cut Wood Step-by-Step Guide Line

Cutting wood can be quite a messy affair which is why you are advised to work in a well-aerated area with lots of room to maneuver around. Because you will need to clamp the wood, you can have a workbench and clamp for this.

To prepare the tool, you need to fix the appropriate attachment for cutting wood. Take the Dremel rotary tool and remove the collar. Thereafter, attach the router base assembly with the straight bit already in place.

Use a marker, stencil or anything that will be visible and mark the area you intend to cut in order to enhance accuracy during cutting. The markings will allow you not to go beyond the marked area thus minimizing errors.

Source: cdn.instructables.com

If your intention is to remove a lot of wood, then the saw attachment is the best to use. You can work on a large area at the shortest time possible. On the other hand, if you are cutting a smaller area of the wood, then the high-speed cutter is the best option.

However, remember to apply low pressure when doing this to avoid stressing your rotary tool which will eventually lead to it jamming.

Also, ensure you use the Dremel rotary tool in the same direction as the wood grain. Failure to do this might lead to skipping over some areas of the wood surface with your rotary tool, especially when you go against the wood grain.

Additionally, you will notice that some places are uneven, which may be difficult to rectify.

Make sure you keep cleaning the sawdust away from the wood so that it does not accumulate and prevent you from seeing the work. Accumulation of sawdust can make the areas look like they have not been worked on and you will end up cutting more than was required.

You may be asking what to do in case you would like to achieve a smooth or rough cut. In the event, you would like a smooth cut, be keen on the speed is chosen for the rotary tool.

If you choose a higher speed with wide strokes when working with wood, you will have a smoother cut. Conversely, if you choose a lower speed, you will end up with a rough cut.

You can switch to sanding or buffing attachment, depending on how smooth or rough you would like your wood to be because it helps to remove the unevenness and any undesired areas. Also, you can retouch on the areas not satisfied, but to avoid any damage, sanding would be the ideal thing to do.

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Learn how to make a simple router jig for cutting dado slots. This simple jig makes it easy to cut accurate dadoes with a router. This jig is easy to build and simple to use.

Tool: Triton Plunge Router

Transcript:

Chris Marshall: Hi folks, I’m Chris Marshall, with Woodworker’s Journal Magazine. One of the strongest ways to install shelves in a bookcase — like this one — or a cabinet project, is to fit the shelves into dadoes in the sides. But to do that, the dadoes need to be cut perfectly straight and to exactly the right width for your shelving material. (And when I built this bookcase, I also needed the shelf dadoes to stop right here. Those can be tough to cut accurately with a table saw and dado blade.

CM: So for stopped dadoes like that, I reach for a simple-to-make slotted dadoing jig for my router. Here’s the one I used for the bookcase project. It’s got a platform to support my router base, with a slot down the middle that fits a 1” outside-diameter rub collar mounted in my plunge router. The jig’s base rests against the edge of my bookcase or cabinet side panel, and it squares the long slot across the panel when I clamp it in place. And if you look here, there’s an even deeper slot cut into the base. That’s made by the actual router bit you’ll use with the jig. It will show you the exact position your router will cut the dado slot, so it’s a SUPER handy index to set this jig accurately.

CM: And once the jig is clamped in place, this slot makes sure that my router can’t drift off course when I’m routing my dadoes, because the rub collar can only go in one direction — straight. With this jig, you’ll always rout dadoes with confidence —whether you’re building a bookcase or another shelving project. And in this short video, I’ll show you how to build one of these jigs.

CM: Start by cutting two, 6-in.-wide platform pieces from 1/2”-thick MDF or plywood. I made mine 26” long, which will allow the jig to cut dadoes up to about 18”. But, you can make the platforms however long you need them to be for your projects. (Flipping jig over to show) As you already know, you’re going to need a base piece for the jig. Make it from 3/4” scrap, 3” wide and exactly 13” long. And you’ll also need this 13”-long bridge piece too, to secure the platform pieces at the end of the jig. I made my bridge 2-1/2” wide.

CM: Start assembling the jig by brad-nailing or screwing one of the platform pieces to the base piece, flush with its end. Attach the bridge piece in the same way to the other end of the platform, but this time, to its opposite face. Now we need to fit the jig to our router’s 1” outside diameter rub collar. This will be the dedicated size that you’ll always use with this jig. For the next step, grab a steel rule or a scrap that measures exactly 1” wide. I’m going to set the second platform piece into position here, and then set the rub collar between the platform pieces, over the base. Now, I’m going to slide my steel rule between the platform pieces on the other end, under the bridge. That establishes our 1” slot.

Cutting Slots In Mdf Sheets

CM: Now clamp the second platform in place carefully, making sure that the slot doesn’t change. Then nail the parts together to secure the second platform. If you’ve built the jig carefully, the rub collar should slide in this slot without extra play. There’s just one last step to do before your slotted dadoing jig is ready for use. Install a bit in your router that you plan to use with this jig. I’ve got a 23/32”-diameter straight bit in mine. It cuts a dado that’s the perfect width for today’s undersized 3/4” plywood.

CM: Now install the rub collar and set the router for a 5/8”-deep pass. Rout a slot across the base of the jig on top. Put a piece of scrap wood in front of the base, underneath, to keep the bit from splintering when it exits this cut.

CM: And now you’ve got your indexing slot, so you know exactly how to line this jig up for cutting dadoes. That’s it! Oh, one last thing: it’s not a bad idea to write the bit size, and rub the collar size, right on the jig — so you’ll remember what to use with it, later. These slotted jigs (B-roll) are my FAVORITE way to rout dadoes. Quick, easy and accurate! I hope you like yours just as much as I do. And, if you liked the looks of the bookcase [B-roll] at the beginning of this video, you can find free, downloadable plans plus a video that will show you how to build it, by visiting woodworkersjournal.com. Thanks for watching.